First up, the completed "Not Weathertop" from Castle Kits We received one for a prize and another one for terrain, but I ran out of time to get it together. Well it will be making it's appearance at the Primer & GitD2010. Painting was rather easy, just flat black followed by several different shades of Grey. Came out rather well, I look forward to getting a few more kits from Castle Kits in the future.
Next up are the Modular hills and regular gaming hills from GamesWorkshop and these were painted like the rest of the Realm of Battle boards in my previous post. Krylon Flat Brown, followed by a drybrush of Nutmeg Brown from Apple Barrel with another dry brush of Honey Brown from Americana. The rocks were painted Flat Black followed by a drybrush of Slate Grey from Americana. Added some GW Green Grass to them and they are ready for battle.
Now for GitD, I like to have themed tables with lots of terrain, last year I built a Mordor table which after GitD was shipped out to Brent & Jamie in Chicago who run the LotR events at Adepticon. When I was there, I told Jamie that he could keep the terrain as a gift from GitD. But that meant I needed to build another Mordor set of terrain. So I busted out two set of GW trees and kept the leaves off to give them that Creepy Mordor feeling to them. Here they are.
I also had a few trees let over from Woodland Scenic that I used last year, but these were individually based. I found that the trees kept getting moved during the game so I decided to do a few bases for these and use some sheet magnets to fold the trees to the bases. Here are three bases that I through together last night.
Here you can see the one tree of the base, I used PVC Plastic or the base, then took and cut out a round disc just large than the tree base out of sheet magnet. Nice thing with the sheet magnet, it has one side that has adhesive on it, so once cut I just stuck them to the PVC base. I then textured the base with Liqutex Stucco and let dry. Once the Stucco was dried just painted to match the base of the trees.
The magnets are fairly strong and will hold the trees (that are mounted on steel washers) pretty well. Nice thing is that folks can remove the trees with out moving the base.
Also for the Mordor table I needed a few rock sections, so these were dug out and touched up for the event. Nothing special, just Pink foam covered with Liqutex Stucco again and painted up.
The last piece of terrain is a tower section sitting atop a Temple of Skulls from GW. Storage is always a concern when building terrain and I knew if I mounted the GW Tower to the Temple model that it would be a pain in the Butt to store. So I decided that I wanted to remove the tower plus I wanted the tower not to move during game play.
So I added a Ruin Section from the LotR kit to the Temple. I glued it down so that it was just wide enough to slide the GW tower over the top of it.
So now I can have the tower on or off without a problem and I can store each easier than them being always together.
But as you can see, the tower is not done, so the Temple will be going as is in the picture below. I will finish it up by GitD. You may also notice that the large skulls have been covered up. Once again since its for LotR, I wanted it to fit better, so I cut/added more rubble to try & disguise the skulls. Since this is one of four kits, the next ones will have the skulls hidden better.
So there you have it, another busy week and now the packing begins for Sunday. Until then...TK
8 comments:
Nice terrain post. Am doing similar magnetizing with my trees now and I like your idea with the castle that slides over the ruins.
amazing Tim, you have been a busy man. Couple questions..whats you paint scheme for Mordor Citadel tree sets? what conversion did you to the temple of skulls to get rid of all the skulls did you just paste them all up with liquid stucco? GitD is still on my schedule, fingers crossed.
John,
Paint scheme for the GW Trees are Flat black Primer, them painted on Mississippi Mud Brown from Americana, followed by a Dry Brush of Mudstone from Ceramcoat. The bases were done in Neutral Grey from Americana, followed by Rain Grey & Quaker Grey by Ceramcoat. Then piked out the details with Brown and of white (for the skulls).
The Temple was a bitch to do, I hacked off two of the Skull backs that are on one side of the kit and repostioned them to cover up where the skulls would go. Then back filled the holes with PVC plastic sheet. Then used some Greenstuff & Stucco to cover it all up.
I also used some two part putty I got from Home Depot to cover up the two skulls that are on the front and left side. Can't remember the name, just its used for patching metal leaks. I tried using it for sculpting but it sets up two quick. It worked well for this though.
Man, you really cranked this out and it looks great! Thanks for the inspiration!
I seem to work better when there is a deadline, thats the only reason why this got done so fast.
Nice idea with the tree magnets! I just posted about my own Woodland Scenics trees. I glued the stumps to the board, but left the trunks un-glued for removal. I also like your Stucco texture. I'll have to pick up a tub.
Tim,
That is outstanding work! As you know, I used some rare earth magnets on my trees and those worked great. However, I'm intrigued by these sheet magnets too. They may be easier to work with than the Rare Earth ones. I know I had to do a lot of dremmeling to get them to sit reasonably flushed.
I love the not-so-weathertop. Those hirst arts bricks are fun to build with for sure.
Lastly, question for you. Are you leaving all the RoB gameboards mostly brown with just patches of grass? I flocked mine with scatterflock almost completely.
Brent,
The idea for the magnets came from your trees last year, I have a ton of these so I thought why not try them out.
The Hirst arts are addicting to work with. I love the act that Castle Kits does all the hard work for you (Casting all the Bricks). Putting them together was fun.
On the RoB, I am keeping them with the patchs of grass on them. I thought about doing the whole board, but opted to go this way instead. There is alot of detail on the boards and I did not want to cover too much of it up.
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